Thursday, March 7, 2013

Falling in Love with El Nido

I've been to Palawan several times because my sister-in-law and favorite niece live near Puerto Princesa, but I only had a chance to visit El Nido last year, in August.
My sister and I booked a room in The Ipil Lodge, a new hotel which was a few minutes walk away from the Puerto Princesa Airport.

The rates were reasonable, the common areas were well appointed with modern wood and Pinoy-themed decor and furniture. The rooms were spacious and clean and it also has a restaurant.The rooftop bar and restaurant were still under construction so we had our meals in the ground-floor restaurant. The meals could have come in bigger proportions but taste was above average.Service was a bit slow, we asked for vinegar for our tapsilog and longsilog breakfast which took about twenty minutes to arrive, (enough time to finish the entire meal). The waiter apologized and said the kitchen was located on the top floor. The manager should have anticipated this and should have served the condiments together with the food.
We spent two days in Puerto Princesa, so we can attend my niece's Fifth Birthday Party at Jollibee, Puerto Princesa.
We bought souvenirs like cultured and south sea pearls, sarongs, keychains and t-shirts from the tourist shops in Magsaysay Avenue and  pasalubong like fried and roasted cashew nuts, cashew tarts, lamayo fish marinated in vinegar and garlic, low-salt danggit and spicy dilis, among others.
Back in Ipil, we booked our El Nido Tour with their hotel staff. We booked a room in their El Nido branch, for three days.We paid P800 each way for an aircon-van rental.We went on the 5AM trip and asked the Ipil Puerto Princesa branch to prepare our breakfast to go, to be ready at 5AM.
The van arrived just before 5AM to fetch us but after several requests from the receptionist and the kitchen staff, we were told that they were not informed to pack our breakfast, which was very irksome. We were disappointed with the staff's short-lived efficiency.
The trip to El Nido took more than five hours because we had to pick up several passengers along the way, also from hotels and inns, and the van terminal near Sabang. (The port where boats going to the Underground River were moored. I heard of stories from irate tourists who booked months ahead, only to be told by their travel agency that they were not able to secure permits for the Underground River Tour. It's a good thing, we already visited the Seventh Wonder two years before, when fewer foreign and local tourists were lining up to see it.)

We arrived in El Nido before 11 am, we asked the Ipil staff that the breakfast which was included with our room rates weren't prepared by their Puerto Princesa counterparts, their staff was good enough to acknowledge our request to have the breakfast there instead at no extra cost.
This is the view from the El Nido, Ipil Lodge's rooftop restaurant called 360 degrees, which as the name implies, gives one a 360 degree view of what the enchanting place has to offer.
One will enjoy the breeze and the breath-taking views of the sea, and the limestone cliffs where the expensive  Balinsasayaw birds-nests are gathered (thus the name of the dish, Nido Soup.) Too bad the restaurants and the cafes in this small seaside town do not serve the soup.
After lunch, we went on a thirty-minute boat ride around the beautiful islets off El Nido. We  spent several hours in a private beach owned by Ipil, it was eponymously named Ipil Island. We had a delicious lunch prepared by the hotel staff, made up of rice,grilled meat, freshly-caught fish, fresh vegetable salad, and a vegetable dish (they always served cucumbers wherever we went, so I guess the veggie was abundant here) We shared the boat with a couple from Germany, college students who were in their school break. The girl was half-Pinay, her boyfriend was of Polish descent. She said she spent her childhood years in Bicol and other Philippine islands when she was on holiday with her Bicolana mom and German dad.
At Ipil Island.
They have a Pawikan or Sea-Turtle sanctuary here and we had a chance to hold some of the hatchlings.

With baby sea-turtles.

We drank buco juice straight from the tree, we intended to go snorkeling after lunch but we dozed off on our sun-loungers under the palm trees, and were only woken up by our guide, when he told us we had a few more minutes before the boat that will take us back to the main land will arrive. I guess we were too tired after the five-hour roadtrip. 
At the El Nido Art Cafe
That night, though tired and sleepy, we checked out the many cafes and restaurants dotting the town. We stumbled on El Nido Boutique and Cafe, a souvenir shop cum gallery for the local artists, cum dive shop and a bar and resto which is a favorite hang-out of the many expatriates who never left the place. Their spicy Chicken Tikka Masala so jolted our tastebuds, we were envigorated! We had to order extra rice and more fruitshake.
They also had free wifi and the Caucasian owners who also served some of the food made their guests feel at home. We just had to taste the yummy looking cakes in their showcase.We were really pleased!
That time, El Nido has a power outage scheduled every 6AM-2PM, so the town comes alive after 2PM, where most shops open. 
One can have a massage for P150 per hour in one of the many improvised massage spas, side by side the sari-sari stores. The set up was, there were several  narrow papag or bamboo beds with thin matresses, each covered by curtains and the local womensfolk would give one a choice of thai, swedish or hilot massage.We preferred to have ours in our room which costed more.
JECA members and my sis, on the boat to the dive spot.
About to go under.


Fish feeding: "Here, fishy, fishy!"
The next day was spent snorkeling and scuba diving.We shared the boat with nice Japanese women, fresh grads who spent months in the Philippines doing volunteer work in depressed areas of the city and poor communities in the provinces.
While the good weather held, we spent the next day island hopping.Miniloc, Helicopter, Simiso Islands provided us a great time taking photos, kayaking, snorkeling and swimming.
Resting after lunch, at  Commando Island.

At the mouth of Big Lagoon.

Look closely and look for the Sea Turtle.


Sipping Coconut Juice at Miniloc Island.


There's a sea snake!
Kayaking near the beach.
I would recommend this place to everyone.Both local and foreign tourists will surely fall in love with El Nido, no wonder, Rachel Weisz, the Hollywood actress who starred in The Bourne Legacy, which was partly shot here, whose crew stayed in Lagen Resort in El Nido, still mentions how she was enchanted with the place when a Filipino journalist interviewed her for a new movie she was promoting.


The long stretch of white sand on Miniloc Island, hurry, visit it before the Shangrila Group of Hotels build one of their resorts here.
I would gladly visit El Nido again and hopefully bring more of my loved ones here, next time.



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